Doctor V - Perioral Pigmentation | Skin Of Colour | Brown Or Black Skin

0:00 hello i'm dr vinita ratan i'm a doctor but i'm also a cosmetic formulator specifically for skin of color so today's video has been requested a lot sorry it's taking me this long to make it it is peri oral pigmentation how do we treat a darkening that happens around the mouth area it is very common in females who have skin of color it tends to happen during puberty darkening tends to happen at various parts of the body at the same time so

0:27 the pubic area the green area the underarm area and around the mouth the cause is largely unknown it tends to be just put down to hormonal meaning that estrogen rises during puberty and the melanocytes become triggered those are cells producing the pigment melanin now with skin of color our melanocytes are larger than for caucasian skin so our cells are much easier to trigger than caucasian skin this is why i always say one scratch one bite or one burn and we

0:59 hyper pigment and actually the same is true of puberty as soon as we go through it various parts of the body darken which doesn't really tend to happen for caucasian skin and this is why i created this whole channel this channel is dedicated to skin of color because we do have different skin conditions the composition of our skin is different we have less ceramides our melanocytes are larger we have to be a lot more careful to avoid any inflammation

1:28 and it was essential that this channel was also non-sponsored meaning that no brand will ever be able to sponsor me now in the future or in the past because i we do we did need a video library for our skin of color family the common complaint that happens with periorbital pigmentation is foundation not matching so what will often happen is you put foundation everywhere and then around the mouth there it it will look ashy that's the word that gets used a lot so

1:59 people tend to color correct this area and use peaches or greens or oranges or reds underneath and then put their foundation on top in order for it to match if this is something that you guys have had experience with can you write down below which color correctors that you love because i think it'd be very helpful considering we've all got a skin of color colour to see which colour correctors everybody is using the one i used to use that i love but is

2:27 finished is now urban decay naked i think i've like literally ever got any left like i've literally got the last bit of this left it's amazing and it's empty i'm actually thinking i might just go into lab and make my own one because it's the color is just so perfect for me but it is actually something quite difficult for me if i ever get blemish or anything i pop it on first and then i put my

2:49 foundation on as usual now some other causes of pigmentation around the mouth are common ones would be melasma on the upper lip area this tends to happen from late 20s onwards especially if you spend a long time in the sun if you haven't been using your sunscreen from a young age or your hats wide-brimmed hats then it does tend to happen it happens a lot with athletes who are sweating outside all day long or if you're on

3:15 hrt hormone replacement therapy or on the contraceptive pill the number of times i've heard you know as soon as you go on the contraceptive pill it can lead to melasma this is you know it's very common so it's just something to be aware of the other big one are specific antibiotics antibiotics can lead to photosensitivity of the skin and so you go out into the sun and pigmentation suddenly develops it doesn't just tend to develop in one area it does tend to

3:43 develop everywhere but there's just something else to be aware of the next one is dermatitis now dermatitis just means inflammation of the skin literally dermatitis and so anything that can inflame the skin can darken the skin the most common would be eczema lip licking that's the other one that tends to happen in the corners when you're constantly licking the corners they start to crack might get anglicalitis or just general inflammation and then darkening of this area the other big one is contact

4:13 dermatitis that can happen from any of your cosmetics your creams but also your color cosmetics this is why i tend to recommend naif safe products no teenage alcohol no fragrance no essential oils because the number one cause of contact dermatitis is fragrance and essential oils sensitizes the skin and denatured alcohol dries the skin so this is why any product i ever recommend on this channel is knave safe that's just a rule of thumb that makes it easy for you to remember i've also if

4:43 you follow me on instagram dr bonita ratan then i actually put every single product that is neat safe on there just so that you can pick and choose if you're looking for a primer or if you're looking for a foundation which ones are nape so now that you've got this pigmentation what do you do number one you want to remove the trigger so for example if it is cosmetics or if it is from lip licking or if it is from eczema

5:08 just stop the trigger so if it's eczema you want to treat the eczema etc so that's the first thing you need to do second thing is you want to use naive safe products of course number third you want to moisturize three times a day with a fatty moisturizer the reason i say this is because when your skin becomes dry those skin cells are packed with pigment and they're stuck together this is why as soon as you moisturize have you noticed

5:33 your skin starts to glow because not only is this an emollient and you're pushing the skin cell edges down but actually you're introducing water molecules into the epidermis the top layer of skin and so you're separating those skin cells slightly which will help prevent this concentration of pigment in a localized area it also creates a healing environment for the skin the next day for thing i would say is make sure you're wearing your mineral spf 50 i do tend to recommend mineral

6:00 because it's anti-inflammatory and the ones that i tend to use our color science spf 50 which is tinted or sheer zinc from neutrogena but it does have a bit of a white cast and of course in zincable which is basically mineral sunscreen with mellow shield in it specifically for pigmentation the main thing with that was to make sure that there was no white cast as well now for your nighttime skin care routine it's important to be wearing tyrosinase

6:27 inhibitors because the mistake people make is that they spend a lot of time exfoliating the skin because you get temporary brightening because all you're doing is removing the dead layers of skin that are packed with pigment but you haven't treated the root cause and so that melanocyte the cells that produce the pigment melanin are still hyperactive and still over producing pigment and your skin is a living organ those skin cells are going to keep coming to the

6:50 surface so you could potentially be damaging your skin by over exfoliating it and you're not treating the root cause so it doesn't really make any sense what you want to do are used for ingredients such as azolic acid kojic dipalmatate alpha arbutin vitamin c tranexamic acid licorice root extract these are all great tyrosinase inhibitors that are safe for skin of color that are not going to lead to more irritation of the skin i've made you a series of videos on

7:19 pigmentation on how to layer the ordinary for pigmentation i always say start cheap so i'd start with the ordinary for those in india i've done one for be minimalist on how to layer it for pigmentation for those in the us and other parts of the world i've done one on paula's choice how to layer put layer poreless choice for pigmentation the other one i like that you can buy online is is good molecules i've got a great discoloration

7:44 serum i always say start cheap so start with those products fast do it for a good three to six months if you're seeing results great that's all you need to do no need to do anything else if that doesn't work then i did create the facial pigmentation kit for you as an upgrade so this has got 10 tyrosinase inhibitors in it and it's been designed specifically for skin of color so this is the next stage but it is

8:08 expensive it's 110 pounds per kit it lasts you about four months four or five months but don't start with that it's it's it's expensive start cheap always and then upgrade some of the classic mistakes i've already discussed exfoliation or over exfoliation the other one is people going on youtube and just watching a diy video you know and they talk about lemon apple cider vinegar and lemon juice which hopefully all of you know by now the ph is far too low for our skin

8:36 our skin has a ph of about five lemon juice is a ph of two and it's just far too acidic can burn the skin and lead to pigmentation for skin of color the exact opposite of what we're trying to do so that's the number one mistake if you want me to make you a video on what to do once you've burnt your skin let me know if you just write that down below and i'll make that video for you i do

8:58 believe i've done a video on what to do once you've burnt your skin from other hyperpigmentation treatments such as acids that were too harsh peeling assets that were too harsh for example the next one is to be careful with overuse of hydroquinone because it can lead to rebound pigmentation where you've you have used it not under supervision and even sometimes under supervision when you stop it you tend to see great results and then you come off of it and

9:26 it can come back worse and in other parts of the face so i'm not a huge fan of hydroquinone for skin of color a lot of people see great results on it it's just it wouldn't be my first choice i'd also say avoid laser for pigmentation and skin of color because laser is too harsh for our skin and with microdermabrasion it gives you temporary results it's very similar to exfoliation you're basically just taking the top layer of skin away but you're

9:52 not treating the root cause which is a hyperactive melanocyte and so you will again see that brightening effect it is a safe procedure for skin of color to do but it's temporary and you know i'd rather you just have long term results don't forget i'm in the comment section for one hour at the launch of every single video please do follow me on instagram dr finita ratan and skincare by dr v i've now got a private

10:19 facebook group called dr b inky hackers there are some questions you have to answer to get in but if you're watching off my videos you'll be fine and don't forget to download your free guide for skin of color which is down below too and please tell me which other videos you want me to make for you thank you